Five Bites of the Big Apple

Bite One

What can one say about New York City or NYC that has not already been said? A lot! This was our second trip to the Big Apple and we had five glorious days in early October to explore and savour the tastes and sites of Manhattan Island. Everyone has a different perspective of NYC depending on where their interests lie. Like any big, cosmopolitan city one can dine, explore the sites and shopping in iconic Manhattan and the surrounding areas. 

Here’s my perspective...

We landed at Newark International Airport in New Jersey. We took the New Jersey Transit into Manhattan for $12.50 per person which was cheaper than the $70 cab ride. The comfortable train took us to Pennsylvania or Penn Station which was a couple of blocks from our hotel, the Wyndham Resort and Spa Times Square near 36^th  Street and 8^th Ave. We were close to museums, parks, theatres and restaurants.
          Since we were about to spend five days in this great walking city we purchased 2 weekly Metro passes for $58. The day passes, regrettably, have been discontinued. The pass is worth the investment for the freedom, flexibility and time savings.  The Metro is a safe, convenient and easy system to navigate. Its tentacle-like network of subways, buses and streetcars spans most of New York City. Metro maps are available at major stations at the ticket booths. Tickets can also be purchased at the machines available at most stations.

Manhattan Island sits at the mouth of the Hudson River to the west and the East River to the east. The city streets, with some exceptions, are based on a grid pattern established in the early 1800s. Fifth Avenue divides the city into east and west, where numbered avenues run north and south and numbered streets to the east and west. Manhattan is divided into three areas: Lower (Downtown); Midtown; and Upper (Uptown).

We dropped off our bags at the hotel and grabbed a quick lunch at the Bread Factory Café on 8^th before embarking on our sightseeing. The Café serves up soups, sandwiches, pizzas, salads and desserts. It has sufficient variety for a quick meal. You can take it to go or enjoy it there. 

Old rail track,
High Line Park

From the Café we made our way south toward the High Line Park, in the Meatpacking/Chelsea district. The Park is a tribute to modern utilitarianism. An obsolete railroad has been transformed into an oasis above the city for the enjoyment of visitors and locals alike.  The railroad, built in the 1930s, was once used to divert dangerous freight trains from the city streets. The tracks can still be seen and have been incorporated into the landscape of the Park. One can almost conjure up images of trains transporting supplies to the factories and warehouses in the area. The culinary delight, Chelsea Market, on 75 9th Avenue (between 15th and 16th Streets),  is on the grounds of the former Nabisco Bread factory. In 1980, a train carrying turkeys made its last trip along the High Line.

Covered Arcade,
High Line Park

There are many access points to the Park: Gansevoort Street, West 18^th Street, West 20^th Street, West 26^th Street, and West 28^th Street. Elevators and stairs and are also available at 14^th Street, West 16^th Street, West 23^rd Street and West 30^th Street. Entrance to the Park is free.

High Line Park 

In the Park there is a myriad of bistro tables, benches, artists, buskers, jazz players, fancy coffee and ice-cream carts; offering the weary tourist an opportunity to savour the city from above. From the southern end of the Park, the Statue of Liberty can been seen in the distance. The sun setting over the Hudson River is a must. 

Near the High Line Park is the auspicious Del Posto, a restaurant collaboration featuring celebrity chefs Mario Batali and Lidia and Joe Bastianich. Del Posto is on the site of the former Oreo Cookie warehouse. The former warehouse had stood empty for many years before Del Posto took it over in 2005. Del Posto is all about attention to detail - a bench to rest your purse, a sommelier to assist with the wine selection, even an escort to the rest room. The décor was elegant yet functional with a grand staircase to the upper level. There are two dinner choices, a five or seven course meal, with plenty of selection within the antipasti, primi, secondi and dolce courses. We chose the five course meal with wine pairings. The courses were well-paced, reminiscent of an Italian wedding. We were given complimentary appetizers, a basket of home-made bread, and after our meal we were given complimentary dessert bites - sets of chocolate, ice cream and candied fruit. The bill came in an 8 1/2 x 11 folded paper, itemizing everything that we had ordered. 

Times Square

Times Square

To walk off our incredibly tasty, but fulsome dinner, we made our way, on foot, toward the vibrancy of Times Square. It was like a thousand throbbing suns. Ads and billboards selling all kinds of wares abound. I doubt that people who suffer from migraines make it out unscathed. But for those that dare venture into this never-ending demonstration of commercialism will not be disappointed.  
Bite Two 

Shopping abounds throughout the city; ranging from haute couture to outlets and designer discount stores like TJ Maxx, Filene’s Basement and Gabay’s Outlet. A memorable shopping experience is at Century 21 near the former site of the World Trade Centre. But beware, it is a shopping extravaganza boasting over 40 departments, on seven levels plus the Broadway and Cortlandt Street Annex which is chock full of shoes for EVERYONE! 

After a morning of shopping at Century 21, lunch was in order. We selected the Korean eatery, Chicken Bon Chon on 207 West 38th Street. The restaurant had sparked interest in one food critic, so we ordered their claim to fame – soy-garlic chicken wings. We were not disappointed. They were very tender, fresh and crunchy. We also ordered Bibimbap, a Korean signature dish, which came with heaping amounts of seafood, vegetables, rice and a sunny-side up egg all mixed together over a hot plate. Complimentary pickled relish accompanied the meal and served as a good palate cleanser. 

Later in the afternoon we made our way to the Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) on 11 West 53rd Street. After 4 p.m. on Friday nights Target, the US chain department store, provides complimentary entrance to the museum. Large bags and knapsacks have to be checked in and, because there was no entrance fee, the line-ups were long and the museum was crowded. There are six floors which include displays of prints and illustrated books; architecture and design; photography; and painting and sculptures, to name a few. 

The Sum of Days Exhibit
Museum of Modern Art (MOMA)

The Sum of Days by Brazilian concept artist, Carlito Carvalhosa, was a special exhibition at MOMA. Translucent material hung from the ceiling to form an eliptical labyrinth. Within the curtain-like material was a system of microphones which record the day's ambient noise. Every day a new recording is superimposed over the day before and played back. The accumulation of sounds culminate in whispers from days past and envelope the observer as he meanders through the labyrinth. Sum of Days is a demonstration of the layering of time.

The Sculpture Garden,
MOMA

The Sculpture Garden, in the outside courtyard of the MOMA served as a foil to the busy, yet magnificent museum. 

Bite Three

The Guggenheim

We began the day with a trek to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum on 1071 Fifth Avenue (at 89th Street). The Museum, more commonly referred to as the Guggenheim, was designed by architect, Frank Lloyd Wright. The Museum opened its doors to the public in 1959, the year its famous architect died. The building’s distinct spiral structure expands outward from the base forming the shape of a teacup. 

Jackie Kennedy-Onassis Reservoir

Central Park

Across from the museum is the Engineer's Gate entrance to Central Park. The Park is flanked by 5^th Ave to the east and 10^th to the west. The Park spans 843 acres and is a foil to the skyscrapers and concrete streets of Manhattan. The Park first opened to the public in 1857. There are twenty-nine sculptures. Two acres of land, named Strawberry Fields, were dedicated to the memory of John Lennon. Cleopatra’s Needle, the Carousel and the zoo are just some of the sites worth exploring over the course of a number of days. For a fabulous view of the Manhattan skyline, jog or walk along the 1.58 mile track that encircles the 106 acre Jackie Kennedy-Onassis Reservoir - a body of water that once supplied the city’s clean water. 

Mr. Lombardi

          From the Park we took the Metro to the Prince stop for lunch at Lombardi’s. The restaurant is purported to be the first pizzeria in North America and is located on the corner of Mott and Spring Streets, in Little Italy. We arrived around 1:00 p.m. and waited for 45 minutes. We had heard that the wait time can be up to two hours depending on the time of day. In any event, prepare to wait because people are willing to line up for a good dose of carbs along the narrow sidewalk. A small, Neapolitan-style pizza costs $16.50; a large, $20.00. Additional toppings are $3.00 each. We enjoyed the roasted red peppers and pepperoni version. But there’s a large selection of the freshest toppings to satisfy meat lovers and vegetarians alike. The crust was slightly charred and oozed with fresh Mozzarella di buffalo. The San Marzano tomatoes tasted as if they had just been picked in a Campania field in south-west Italy. The pizza was worth the wait. 

Not far from the pizzeria, toward the north-west of the city, is Greenwich Village, also referred to as the Village.  The area deviates from the grid structure found to the north of 14th Street. The Village is home to Washington Square, which at the time was bursting with the Occupy Wall Street demonstrators. A triumphal arch, at the entrance to the park, is reminiscent of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. A monument of the 1st President of the United States, George Washington, is one of several statues in this Manhattan park. 

Along the streets of Greenwich Village one will discover the statue of the former Mayor of New York City, Fiorello La Guardia who served the city between 1934 and 1945. A tour of the Village is not complete without a stroll along Morton Street for its beautifully preserved brownstones. A walking tour of the Village and some of its famous inhabitants, like Cary Grant, are best described in the New York Times article at http://www.nytimes.com/ref/travel/TOUR-GV.html.

Bite Four

We took the A/C Metro train to High Street in Brooklyn. DUMBO stands for Down Under the Manhattan Overpass, a Brooklyn neighbourhood which surrounds the area near the Brooklyn Bridge. We walked along old Fulton Street and then along the pier where we picked up ice cream at the Ice Cream Factory – a refreshing treat on a hot, fall day. 

For lunch we went to Grimaldi’s pizzeria on 19 Fulton Street. We arrived there at 11:30 thinking that it would be open. But on Saturday and Sunday it opens at noon. There were only two others before us, but minutes later the line up was down the street. Like the entertaining street cleaner said, “best wait half hour now, then 1 ½ hours later.” Best advice we could have gotten as we were among the first to be seated when the restaurant opened.

Around the corner from the restaurant on 66 Water Street, is the Jacques Torres chocolate factory where the melt in your mouth chocolate chip cookies are truly to die for. The server will warm them up for you if you like. 

Brooklyn Bridge from DUMBO

After basking in the sun for several hours at the Brooklyn Bridge Park, we tightened our shoe laces and headed toward the Brooklyn Bridge for our one mile journey back to Manhattan. The Bridge, which soars over the East River, offers spectacular and unobstructed views of Manhattan. The Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island are clearly visible to the south. To the north is the iconic Empire State Building. As we got closer to Manhattan, we could see the construction of the new World Trade Centre. The skyscraper is an unavoidable reminder of the events of 9/11. 

As night fell over the city, we continued our approach toward the glimmering lights of Manhattan. 

Last Bite 

This was our final day in the great city before heading home. 

Central Park

We picked up breakfast at the Whole Foods store near Columbus Circle to the west of Central Park. We made our way to the Conservatory Garden North and admired the picturesque Korean chrysanthemums. The floral tapestry is at its peak toward the end of October/early November. 

Flat Iron Building

No trip to Manhattan would be complete without a visit to the triangular-shaped skyscraper, the Flat Iron Building which abuts Fifth Avenue, Broadway, East 22nd Street and 23rd Street. This groundbreaking structure, built in 1902, is now the headquarters for several publishing companies. The area within which the building is located is called the Flat Iron District. 

Across the street at 200 5th Avenue is Eataly. This must see establishment is an eatery, a cooking school and a market stacked with foods from all over Italy. Anything anyone has ever wanted that is Italian can be found here. It is an experience not to be missed. The Birreria, a roof top restaurant, is a great way to unwind after hours of sightseeing. Beware. It is a very popular place and if you don’t have reservations the line up is long. Breathtaking views of the Flat Iron Building can be seen from the terrace.

Empire State Building

To wrap up our stay in Manhattan, we went to the Art deco style Empire State Building. The skyscraper is 102 stories high with observation decks on the 86th and 102nd floors. To reach the observation decks, five different line-ups have to be endured before one can partake of the breathtaking 360 degree views of NYC.  We went to the 86^th floor observation deck. The city buzzed below, but felt oddly distant from this vantage point. Macy’s Department Store, the Chrysler Building, Rockefeller Center, The Statue of Liberty, the Flat Iron building, among others, were more impressive at this height.

The Empire State Building, considered to be one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World, was a wonderful way to cap off our last night in the Big Apple.