Chagall and the Russian Avant-Garde

     I was thrilled to hear that the art of Marc Chagall was leaving its home at the Centre Pompidou in Paris for a short stay at the Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO). The exhibition, entitled Chagall and the Russian Avant-Garde was not only a tribute to the artist and his work, but also other Russian artists such as Vassily Kandinsky, Alexei Jawensky, Natalia Goncharova and Alexander Archipenko, among others. Most were from Vitebsk and the Ukraine, former regions of the Russian Empire.

     The combined works of these artists depict a world that is simultaneously surrealistic and thought provoking. This form of art was prolific between 1890 and 1930, although some experts would argue that the movement lasted much longer. 

Five Bites of the Big Apple

Bite One

What can one say about New York City or NYC that has not already been said? A lot! This was our second trip to the Big Apple and we had five glorious days in early October to explore and savour the tastes and sites of Manhattan Island. Everyone has a different perspective of NYC depending on where their interests lie. Like any big, cosmopolitan city one can dine, explore the sites and shopping in iconic Manhattan and the surrounding areas. 

Here’s my perspective...

Part 3: Ten Days in the City of Light

Day 8

Two more days to go. Sadly, the countdown for home has begun.

We went to Gare Austerlitz to take the 40 minute train ride to Versailles and its famous palace of the same name. The sun glistened upon the palace’s baroque rooftop which used to be home to Louis XIV when he moved from Paris. It was the hottest day so far. The palace was sufficiently south of Paris to have its own “microclimate”. At the gates of the Palais de Versailles, there were hundreds, if not thousands of tourists. The line ups were long and slow moving. After a two hour wait, we entered the grand palace.  On display were the rooms of the king and queen, the chapel, the hall of mirrors as well as the pristinely manicured gardens.

We returned to Paris for a late lunch at Maison Micoleau on rue St Dominique in the 7^th.  We ate cassoulet and a salad with duck confit, lardons (bacon) and apples to balance the rich flavours. 

Further down the street, at number 112, was the Pâtisserie-Boulangerie Michel Annoux. We ordered a cup of chocolat chaud.  The thick chocolate drink was infused with frothy cream and honey and is by far the best hot chocolate I’ve ever had. 

We took the Metro to Sacré Coeur, a Roman Catholic church and basilica built in 1914 and sits upon the highest point in Paris, the butte Montmartre.  The cable car which usually takes people to the summit was out of service so we took the gruelling stairs to the top. From there we could see across Paris, and below  Montmartre’s narrow streets brimmed with shops ranging from food to clothing to souvenirs. In the Place du Tertre, near the bottom of the church is the famed square where artists bring life to their canvasses.

Day 9

Our second last day in Paris was, yes, overcast and threatening rain.

We took the Metro to Sully Morland to Berthillon on 29-31, rue Saint Louis en l’ile. While we went there primarily for the tarte tatin, an upside down apple pie, we discovered that it is renowned for its all natural ingredients ice cream and interesting toppings. We tried four flavours between us: chocolate nougat, marron glacée, praline and vanilla. We saved the tarte tatin for later.

Later that afternoon, we took the Metro to the Eiffel Tower/Champs de Mars stop. As we rounded the corner, the 1063 foot puddle iron, lattice tower beckoned us with its flickering lights. 

Eiffel Tower 

Eiffel Tower

The lines for the elevator to the three platforms of the Eiffel Tower were incredibly long. The line up to walk up the Tower was much shorter, so after waiting for about twenty minutes climbed to the first level, which is about 187 feet from ground level. It wasn’t a difficult climb, with many opportunities to rest along the way. It took 10 minutes. We walked around the platform and spotted the Seine, École Militaire, a military training facility, the Palais de Chaillot across from the Seine, Sacre Cœur, and the Arc de Triomphe. The Tour Montparnasse, a modern skyscraper, rose like a sore thumb amongst the traditional low rise buildings. We climbed to the second platform which was at 381 feet for a similar perspective, only higher. For those with a fear of heights, the second level is probably sufficient. The third and final platform is at 910 feet. Night crept upon us. The city lights shimmered around us.

We descended the Tower and headed for the Café du Monde on rue Bourdonnais. We sipped wine and watched the Tower’s flashing lights. 

Day 10

We were awakened by rain pelting our widow. Quelle surprise! Another rainy day in Paris! We picked up churros, croissants and coffee at the Bastille market and returned to our room to enjoy our breakfast. 

After breakfast, we went to the Moulin Rouge in the 7^th, Metro stop Pigalle. Atop the 1889 structure is a windmill or moulin and is considered to be the birthplace of the can-can dance which gave rise to the cabaret scene across Europe. The can-can was a seductive dance of the courtesans and was depicted in Toulouse Lautrec’s paintings. The area is a mix of residences, adult establishments, shops and cafes.

From there, we took the Metro and stopped at a few of our favourite places: the Tuileries, the Champs Elysée, and the Arc de Triomphe. 

That evening we had dinner at Allard’s on 41 rue St André des Arts; Metro station St Michel . This restaurant serves up traditional French cuisine classics such as coq au vin, escargots, frog legs, roast duck with olives, and cassoulet. But we went there for the roasted potatoes and whole chicken which hails from the village of Bourg-en-Bresse and is known across France for its quality, free range chickens. Along with the house wine, which rounded out the robust flavours of the bird, we managed to devour it. 

A trip to Paris would not be complete without a visit to Place de la Madeleine in the 8^th. It is a foodie haven which boasts a number of high end food shops, including Fauchon, Hédiart, Maïlle, and Lavinia, a wine store. Here you will find spices and coffees; chocolates and pastries; and other gourmet foods. We  purchased savoury and sweet delights for home. It was a great finish to a wonderfully decadent and memorable first trip to the City of Light.


Join me next time as I write about last month's trip to the Big Apple (New York City).

Part 2: Ten Days in the City of Light

by: Irene Fantopoulos

Day 4

I.M. Pei Louvre Pyramid

Today the Musée du Louvre was in order. It is one of the world’s largest museums and a major Parisian landmark. It is located on the Right Bank of the Seine in the 1^st arrondissement. The Museum is part of the Palais du Louvre, built originally as a fortress in the late 12th Century under Philip II. Remnants of the fortress remain. During the French Revolution, 1789–1792, the National Assembly decreed the Louvre be used as a museum to display the nation's masterpieces. (Source: Wikipedia)

On the advice of friends, we entered the museum from the Carrousel de Louvre, the “mall” beneath the Museum. We waited mere minutes, thrilled that we didn’t have to endure the line ups from above. We were also pleased that our tickets provided us with in-out privileges.

Venus de Milo

The first order of business was the Venus de Milo. The armless sculpture stood watch on a pedestal as ardent admirers flocked around her. Speculation suggests the statue depicts Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love and beauty. We wandered through the Roman, the Greek, the Etruscan and the Egyptian sections before making our way to Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. The famous portrait was surrounded by people; making it hard to get a good glimpse. The painting was much smaller than its larger than life depiction. But her iconic smile did not disappoint. 

We spent many hours admiring the hundreds of treasures and artefacts, but we barely scratched the surface of the 35,000 objects, some of which date back to prehistory. The selection and sheer size of the Museum were daunting. It is not unusual to spend weeks if not months, meandering through art laden corridors, before one could say they’ve truly toured the Louvre. 

Day 5

We made our way to the Rodin Museum in the 7^th , on 79 rue de Varenne. It was a sunny day, so we decided to forgo the museum itself, and instead, paid €1 to tour the expansive gardens filled with Rodin sculptures, including the renowned Thinker and the Gates of Hell. We sat a few meters from the pensive sculpture and wondered what had been on the model’s mind. Around the corner was a sculpture of Balzac, a French novelist. We walked along the two pathways, the Garden of Orpheous and the Garden of Springs.  Beyond the park, one could see the baroque-style Église du Dome, part of  Les Invalides, a hospital built by Louis XIV for wounded and sick soldiers. 

Rodin's The Thinker

We dined at L’Academie, on 97 rue St Dominique, Metro stop La Tour Maubourg. We ordered entrecôte (rib-eye steak) and frites. Satiated, we made our way toward L’École Militaire which afforded us a panoramic view of the Eiffel Tower. We strolled along the grassy lea of the Champs de Mars and admired the Wall for Peace, conceived by Clara Halter. Visitors may put messages of peace in the chinks of the wall which were designed for this purpose. 

We hopped on the Metro and got off at George V for a chocolat chaud at the famous Ladurée, located on 75 rue Champs Elysées. Louis-Ernest Ladurée is credited with the creation of the double-decker macaroon.

Day 6 

Another rainy day in Paris. We went to la Musée D’Orsay which is housed in a former railway station.  The Museum contains a vast collection of impressionist and post-impressionist art, including artists such as  Monet, Manet, Degas, Gauguin, Lautrec, Van Gogh, Cezanne, and Renoir. We spent the majority of our time on this floor.  Student artists sat in various rooms throughout the gallery reproducing the masterpieces.

From the Musée D’Orsay we went to St Sulpice. The gothic style church is not much smaller than Notre Dame de Paris, but not nearly as famous, at least to non-Parisians. St Sulpice was referenced in Dan Brown’s “The Da Vinci Code”. 

From St Sulpice we went to Galeries Lafayette, a department store which is home to Gucci, Hermès, and Louis Vuitton, among others. We were awestruck by the art nouveau style with stained glass ceiling and steel dome. A view of Paris from the terrace on the 7^th floor is a must and it is absolutely free. From there, gaze upon the omnipresent Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe and the Centre Pompidou, named after the former French president Georges Pompidou.

Day 7

The morning focused on errands: a trip to American Express to cash traveller’s cheques; a trip to Air France for flight information; and a new suitcase for treasures purchased in Paris. 

Our next stop was the historical covered passages, les Passages Couverts in the 9^th  arrondissement. The passages are shopping arcades built in the 1800’s, complete with glass ceilings. The passages were also used as havens from the bad weather. Given the rainy weather we’d experienced, it made sense and not unlike other malls where patrons take refuge from summer’s sweltering heat or frigid winters. Some of the arcades are no longer operational; but there are some retail establishments, bistros and cafés. 

We went to the famous Stohrer pastry shop on 51 rue Montorgueil, Metro stop Porte de Clignoncourt. Nicolas Stohrer, a famed baker to the Queen of France and inventor of baba au rhum, opened his shop in 1730. Except for the surly server, it was a delightful pastry shop filled with pastries, jams macaroons and marons glacées (sugared chestnuts). We picked some treats to nibble on and continued our sightseeing around the 2^nd  arrondissement.

...to be continued

Ten Days in the City of Light

Day 1

Our plane landed on the Charles de Gaulle airstrip at 6 a.m. It was a cool and drizzly spring day. Thus began our ten day Paris adventure.

After picking up our luggage, my husband and I took the airport bus to Gare de Lyon near our hotel, the Ibis Paris Bastille Opera in the 11^th. Paris is divided into arrondissements or municipal districts. From the central 1^st which claims the Louvre to the 20^th with its famous cemetery, Cimetière du Père-Lachaise.